African cuisine gains global popularity

It is considered healthy, full of big flavours, and contains many superfoods

FEATURE | THE INDEPENDENT | African cuisine is experiencing a major surge in global popularity, with West African food in particular recognised as the “top culinary trend”, according to Open Table, the San Francisco-based online restaurant-reservation service company.

Africa’s cuisine is gaining popularity because it is considered healthy, full of big flavours and contains many superfoods. Two articles in this week’s issue of the online academic journal, The Conversation, make exactly these points.

One essay entitled `Africa’s superfood heroes – from teff to insects – deserve more attention’ was published on April 16. Several contributors to the essay, including ethnobotanists, biodiversity reserchers, global change experts and more noted that Africa is home to a rich variety of incredible indigenous crops and foods – from nutrient-dense grains and legumes to unique fruits and leafy greens. Despite their value, many of these foods are often overlooked, under-celebrated, and under-consumed in favour of imported or commercial alternatives.

Another say entitled `Africa’s traditional fermented foods – and why we should keep consuming them’ was also published the same day. It was authored by Florence Malongane, Senior lecturer, and Tendaiishe Berejena, Public Health Nutrition Researcher, University of South Africa.

As nutrition researchers they undertook an in-depth assessment of fermented African foods and their potential to improve human health cost-effectively.

They pointed out the benefits of eating fermented foods, including reducing inflammation and infections.

By gaining a deeper understanding of the diverse microbiomes present in various fermented indigenous African foods, they aimed to enhance human health through targeted dietary interventions.

Fermentation is a process where microorganisms like bacteria and yeast work together to break down complex carbohydrates and protein into simpler, more digestible forms.

The fermentation process not only extends the shelf life of food but also enhances its nutritional content. During fermentation, beneficial microorganisms produce essential vitamins and minerals.

They noted that modern food systems often harm both health and the environment.

“These systems promote cheap, processed foods that contribute to poor nutrition and disease. At the heart of the food system’s problems is a lack of diversity. Power is consolidated in the hands of a few mega-corporations and the world relies on four main staple crops – wheat, rice, maize and soybean – to meet most food needs,” they said.

In South Africa, for instance, healthy diets remain unaffordable for many, and traditional crops like sorghum have declined.

Scientist Laura Pereira revealed how, once central to diets and culture, sorghum is nutritious, drought-resistant and climate-resilient. Yet, it suffers from negative stereotypes and limited market appeal.

Going back in history

Fermentation as a preservation method can be traced back a long way. In the Middle East, between 1,000 and 15,000 years ago, people moved from foraging and hunting to organised food cultivation and production.

Evidence of the alcoholic fermentation of barley into beer and grapes into wine dates back to between 2000 and 4000 BC.

In the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent milk was fermented to create yoghurt and other sweet and savoury fermented milks. White cabbage pickles and fermented olives are very popular in the Middle East.

In India and the Philippines, rice flour was fermented to produce products like noodles.

In Africa, fermented foods hold great cultural significance and health benefits, yet this topic has not been thoroughly researched.

Foods are mostly fermented at home and trends vary by region.

The primary ingredients in African fermented foods are mainly cereals, tubers and milk.

Most of the fermented foods are plants that grow on their own in the wild and are often considered weeds in cropped and cultivated land. These include amaranths, Bidens pilosa, cleome and Corchorus species. The increased availability of African indigenous foods could expand the range of commercially available fermented African foods.

While some products like marula beer have entered the commercial market, the overall consumption of fermented foods among Africans has declined.

This drop is largely due to the widespread availability of refrigeration systems and a growing loss of interest in traditional African foods.

Improving health in Africa

Fermented root plants such as cassava and yam have been shown to decrease creatinine levels, which may indicate enhanced renal function and kidney health. This suggests that the fermentation process not only enriches these root plants with probiotics, but also promotes better physiological responses in the body.

Among the diverse array of fruits native to Africa, baobab and marula are the most popular fermented fruits. Fermenting them enhances their protein and fibre content. Consuming fermented baobab fruits has been shown to reduce the activity of α-amylase, an enzyme that may have implications for regulating blood sugar.

Millet, maize, African rice and sorghum are the most fermented grains in Africa. When these foods are fermented, they can help reduce blood glucose levels, serum triglycerides and cholesterol.

Amahewu is a traditional beverage produced through the fermentation of sorghum or maize, mostly enjoyed in South Africa and Zimbabwe for its tangy flavour and smooth texture.

In Kenya, a similar fermented cereal beverage known as uji is made of millet and flavoured with milk, adding to its rich and nutritious profile.

Ghana boasts its own version called akasa, which is prepared from a combination of sorghum, corn and millet and known for its unique taste and cultural significance.

In Sudan, the beverage referred to as abreh varies in preparation but shares the same essence of fermentation, while in Nigeria, ogi is another fermented cereal paste, from similar small grains like sorghum and millet, which produce a creamy beverage.

Fermenting sorghum and millet provides essential nutrients and supports metabolic health and gut function.

In Nigeria, fermented cereal beverages are widely used to control diarrhoea in young children.

Sour milk is the most fermented food in Africa, celebrated for its rich flavour and numerous health benefits.

During the fermentation process, bacteria convert the milk sugar, called lactose, into lactic acid.

Kulenaoto, a traditional fermented milk drink enjoyed in Kenya, is known for its creamy texture and slightly tangy flavour. South Africa produces sour milk known as amasi. Nigeria and Togo share a common fermented dairy product known as wara, which is made from fermented soybeans and is often served as a snack.

In Ghana, nyamie is a rich, thick yogurt-like product. In Cameroon, pendidam is a unique fermented milk product that is cherished for its distinctive taste and nutritional benefits, making it a staple in many households.

Regular consumption of fermented sour milk can play a significant role in weight management, decreasing visceral (gut) fat, which is a risk factor for cardiovascular diseases.

Moreover, fermented milk offers valuable protection against folate deficiency.

Bugs, bugs, bugs

For thousands of years, people from all over the world have eaten insects. Today about 2.5 billion people – many of whom live in Africa – eat insects. To date, 470 African edible insects have been scientifically recorded. Grasshoppers and termites are among some of the favourites.

Researchers Martin Potgieter and Bronwyn Egan shared insights into the various ways they’re eaten across the continent. Recipes vary by region and include snacks, stews and even stuffed dates.

Powerful pulses

Many of Africa’s local pulses – such as beans, lentils and cowpeas – are highly nutritious, affordable and climate-resilient foods. As researcher Nokuthula Vilakazi explained, they can play a vital role in addressing malnutrition and food insecurity in Africa.

“Rich in protein, fibre, and essential vitamins and minerals, pulses are especially valuable for tackling both chronic hunger and hidden hunger caused by poor diets,” the researchers said.

Championing teff

Teff, an ancient grain from Ethiopia and Eritrea, is gaining global popularity due to its health benefits, especially being gluten-free.

Crop expert HyeJin Lee explained that, despite teff’s resilience and importance to millions, inefficient practices and weak value chains hinder growth.

Kenya’s positive push

Once viewed as outdated or poor people’s food, traditional vegetables and local foods in Kenya are now experiencing a resurgence.

This is because traditional vegetables – like spider plant, leaf amaranth and cassava leaves – have proven to be more nutritious than commonly eaten exotics, like cabbage.

The leaves of cassava, a major vegetable in central African nations, are rich in proteins. A single serving, or 100 grams of the leaves, can provide up to three times the recommended daily intake of vitamin A in children and adults.

The fruit pulp of the baobab can supply as much as 10 times the amount of vitamin C as an orange, by weight.

Botanist Patrick Maundu explained how a nationwide effort has promoted the nutritional and cultural value of indigenous foods since the mid-1990s. This initiative improved seed availability, linked farmers to markets, and helped restore pride in local food culture.

Looking forward

African fermented foods could be the easiest and least expensive way of introducing beneficial microbes to the gastrointestinal tract, replacing expensive pharmaceutical probiotics. These processes should be encouraged, and younger generations need to be exposed to the benefits of these traditions. Vanishing plants could be preserved and distributed through seed banks. The tradition of fermentation should be encouraged at both household and commercial levels to promote overall health.